Tucked along the east coast of Vancouver Island, the seaside town of Chemainus, BC, is often celebrated for its impressive outdoor gallery of murals, but that’s just the beginning of its charm. Whether you're drawn by the promise of coastal scenery, creative energy, or small-town warmth, Chemainus offers an experience that leaves a lasting impression.
My very first visit was completely unplanned. I was simply on a mission to find a special Father’s Day gift, and the store happened to be located in Chemainus. But the moment I stepped onto picturesque Willow Street—the town’s central shopping hub—I knew our quick errand was turning into something much more.
That spontaneous stop sparked a connection, and I’ve returned many times since. Each visit reveals something new, and Chemainus continues to charm me with its friendly atmosphere, rich artistic culture, and coastal beauty.
Chemainus, BC: More Than Just Murals
Of course, Chemainus is world-renowned for its Mural Project—a grassroots initiative launched to revive the town’s economy by celebrating its history through large-scale art. Today, over 50 murals grace the walls of downtown, transforming the entire community into an open-air gallery.
To find the murals in Chemainus, follow the yellow footprints painted on the sidewalks, which guide you along the mural route. You can also obtain a free map from the tourist center near Waterwheel Park, which details the murals' locations.
The murals are located throughout the town, particularly on the main street and in “Old Town Chemainus.”
But beyond the art, what truly stands out is the town’s hospitality. Friendly shopkeepers, welcoming locals, and a laid-back atmosphere make Chemainus feel like home, no matter where you're from.
A Stroll Down Willow Street
Willow Street feels like it was made for wandering. Lined with character-filled shops, it invites you to slow down and browse. It's lined with antique stores brimming with history, unique fashion boutiques, cozy cafés, artisan gift shops, and even a lovely little church dating back to the 1890s. Each storefront seemed to reveal something new and unexpected.
A highlight for my kids (and, let’s be honest, me too) is the whimsical year-round Christmas store. Even in the heat of summer, stepping through its doors felt like entering a snow globe. With festive décor, seasonal trinkets, and off-season surprises, it's worth visiting at any time of year.
Another kid (and young at heart) favourite is the Hansel & Gretel's Candy Co. They sell a staggering selection of old-fashioned and much-loved confectioneries. I recommend buying a “Mystery Box”, if not just for the little box filled to the brim with an assortment of candies, then for the pure enjoyment of choosing this special box.
Insider Tip: Make sure to check out the beautiful courtyard located behind the candy store!
Along the main street, there are a few great eateries to try, including the Willow Street Cafe and the Owl's Nest Bakery and Bistro.
Waterwheel Park
Just steps away from the main shopping area is Waterwheel Park, the cultural and community heart of Chemainus.
The park is both scenic and symbolic, with a replica waterwheel at its entrance paying homage to the town’s early logging roots. A mural titled First Chemainus Sawmill 1862 adds artistic flair, while the Salish Welcome Arch, designed by Penelakut artist Maynard Johnny Jr., honours the area's Indigenous heritage and commitment to reconciliation.
The park features a covered bandshell for live music and events, a playground, a labyrinth, and a picnic space, making it a great spot to relax between mural touring and boutique shopping. It is also home to the Chemainus Valley Museum, offering further insight into the town’s fascinating past.
Waterwheel Park is also where you can access Old Town Chemainus.
Old Town is the original shopping area of the town, which remains as active today as it once was. Beside the ferry dock, a lively group of merchants offers everything from delicious foods to electronics, apothecary and packaging, art, antiques and collectibles, and books.
Theatre, Dining, and Culture
No visit to Chemainus would be complete without catching a performance at the Chemainus Theatre Festival. As one of the most respected professional theatre companies in Western Canada, they stage a rotating lineup of musicals, comedies, dramas, and mysteries throughout the year.
For the full experience, make a reservation at the Playbill Dining Room before or after the show. There, you can enjoy a delicious meal accompanied by live music.
Beneath the Surface
Just off Chemainus lies a surprising underwater attraction: a sunken Boeing 737 that has been transformed into an artificial reef. This one-of-a-kind dive site draws cold-water divers from near and far, offering excellent visibility and a fascinating array of marine life.
If staying above water is more your speed, there’s no shortage of ways to enjoy Chemainus’ coastal setting. You can drop a fishing line from shore, explore the bay by kayak, or take in the salty breeze while walking the waterfront trails.
The town also serves as a launch point for island adventures, with BC Ferries connecting travellers to Penelakut and Thetis Islands. You can also take your own boat or kayak to nearby Valdes Island using the public boat launch at Kinsmen Beach Park.
Getting There
Chemainus is located approximately one hour and 15 minutes north of Victoria (traffic dependent) and half an hour south of Nanaimo.
From Victoria – take the Trans-Canada Highway North from Victoria. After you pass through Duncan, watch for the Chemainus exit (about 10 minutes later) at Henry Road.
From Nanaimo – take the Trans-Canada Highway South and take the scenic route. Watch for exit signs approximately 5 minutes after you pass through Ladysmith. Exit at Davis Road (which turns into Chemainus Road).
A Few Great Places to Stay
The Best Western Plus Chemainus Inn is a great accommodation option no matter where you are exploring in the Cowichan Valley. It features modern rooms equipped with amenities. Guests can enjoy a complimentary hot breakfast and access to an indoor pool, fitness center, and business facilities. The hotel is also conveniently located near the above-mentioned attractions.
For a unique stay, I recommend renting the Castle. This spacious property features a well-equipped kitchenette, and a bedroom and bathroom fit for royalty, ensuring a comfortable stay.
Why Chemainus Belongs on Your Vancouver Island Itinerary
Chemainus is the perfect place to start if you’re looking to uncover a lesser-known treasure on Vancouver Island. With its blend of creative spirit, coastal beauty, and warm community feel, it offers something special in every season.
Whether you're there to admire the murals, enjoy a theatre night out, or simply meander down Willow Street, this little town makes you want to linger. It's also a perfect stop along a Cowichan Valley road trip.
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